Bengal is well known for its stunning handwoven textiles, a hallmark of the region; it has seen many evolutions throughout the ages, from the simple drapes to the royal influence on the garment. The handwoven organic cotton saree has seen many changes. The saree is synonymous with Indian fashion. The factors that have affected the evolution of sarees are the socio-economic factors and environmental conditions of the region.
This blog will explore the intriguing history of Bengali handwoven organic sarees, including their changes and significance in modern fashion.
Bengal has the oldest tradition of handweaving textiles. Starting from course garments, we moved on to softer and lighter materials. Bengal was renowned for its exquisite muslin during the Mauryan and Gupta eras, so much so that many empires from all around the globe would traverse the rough seas to reach Bengal and take back muslin to their homelands.
During the Mughal reign, new techniques and designs emerged. The Mughal fascination with floral and geometric designs influenced Bengal's weavers, known as "karigars," who started adding these unique patterns and motifs to their sarees.
Thanks to advancements during this time, the workmanship of handwoven sarees underwent a tremendous transformation. Handwoven organic cotton sarees went from plain styles and designs to intricate embroidery hand-woven into the fabric itself.
During this period, natural methods of dying became popular. While before there were only a few colours available to common people (indigo being reserved for royalty), now they had a variety of hues to choose from. This tradition of colouring garments with natural dyes obtained from plants, insects, and minerals lasted for thousands of years.
During British rule, Bengal's textile sector saw many changes. While the colonisers came with several technological advancements, traditional weaving techniques declined because of the economic policies introduced by the Britishers.
The British wanted to sell their machine-made garments in India and, as such, created obstacles for weavers and banned many traditional textiles. Many weavers were compelled to give up on their profession.
But despite the challenges, the British were not successful in completely erasing the tradition.
After India was finally independent, efforts were made to revive old traditions and garments. Initiatives were introduced to promote and protect the continuation of handweaving textiles.
A number of private organisations have cropped up in recent times that work in tandem with these local weavers to bring back the ancient techniques.
After 1947, the idea of organic textiles started to become popular again. People understood the benefits of wearing organic and individualistic clothes rather than synthetic, mass-produced garments. Weavers began advocating for the use of organic cotton instead of using cotton grown using artificial chemicals and pesticides.
Today, we have seen a dramatic boom in the popularity of handwoven organic cotton sarees. People have started to recognise the distinct charm and beauty of textiles made by skilled hands. That personal experience and story have become an important aspect. Everyone wants a wardrobe that speaks of tradition and a protected culture.
Modern Bengali designers have integrated organic and sustainable fashion with traditional weaving methods. The new and the old have fused to create a brand-new aesthetic. The use of organic cotton, natural dyes, and eco-friendly techniques by artisans has changed the fashion industry. It is more than a mass-producing market. Weavers who give their blood and sweat to create such singular pieces every day are treated with fair pay and respect. These artisans, whose callused hands weave these beautiful organic cotton sarees, adhere to traditional techniques but experiment with new designs and patterns.
As such, we can say that Bengal's handwoven organic cotton saree has seen many changes throughout the ages, and we can visually follow the dramatic changes in them ourselves. Despite the challenges that the industry has faced, the traditions and styles have survived; it is a symbol of the region's sustainable development and rich cultural legacy. Bengal’s saree has evolved from traditional muslin to organic fusion textiles and maintains a strong bond with the past, the arts, and the natural world.
The dips and waves in the graph of this traditional craft show us why it is so crucial to protect our legacy while advancing towards a more sustainable future. The spirit of Bengali weaving culture is preserved in each thread and pattern, fusing the past and present into a stunning tapestry of sustainability and culture.
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